Some of the most expensive and most sought wines in the world come from a 25km wide stretch of east and south east facing slopes of the massif central in the heart of France. Running for 70km due south of the city of Dijon: The area is Burgundy; the vineyards are the Cote D’Or, (the ‘Golden Slopes’) and it is home to the greatest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines in the world.
The clay loam soils are laden with limestone and enjoy generous rainfall throughout the year, protection from the prevailing cold westerly winds, and a cooler continental climate during that allows slow flavour development. The area between Beaune and Dijon is known as the Cote De Nuits and produces many of the fullest bodied and longest lived Pinot Noirs. Some of the most famous village names are in this area: Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanee, Nuit St George and Aloxe Corton.
South of Beaune is the “Cote De Beaune” which also produces fruitier Pinot Noirs in the villages of Pommard and Volnay, but it is most famous for producing the best Chardonnays. Think of names: Meaursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne Montrachet.
The quality is reflected in the appellation system, where almost all Grand Cru designated vineyards for white wines are found in the Cote De Beaune, and for reds in the Cote de Nuits. The soils and aspects in Burgundy have incredible variation, sometimes within very small areas, which are linked to the subtle changes in the resulting wines. Over centuries, these variations resulted in the classification of specific blocks into village, premier cru and grand cru vineyards.
Most Grand Crus and Premier Cru vineyards are found mid slope. They are high enough to benefit from maximum sun aspect protecting them from frost on shallow free draining soils which limit the vigour of the wines. Further up the slope and they tend to be affected by cooling influence of the westerly atlantic winds. The basic village level wines are typically found on the lower slopes, on the deeper fertile flat lands.
The resulting variations be astonishing not just in the wines, but in the prices and desirability of wines that are grown mere metres apart.
A prime example personally is the Premier Cru vineyard called ‘Les Chaumes‘ in the Vosne-Romanee township.
This Pinot Noir vineyard is on the lower slopes and enjoys the benefits of the Cote D’Or. It produces high quality and age-worthy Pinot Noir with savoury red fruit and herbaceous characters and supple tannins. I tasted one from a visit to the family winery Domaine Bernard Rion. A bottle will set you back around 40 Euros ($65AUD), so not cheap, but within the reach of many.
However, just metres away, literally across the 2-metre wide dirt road, lies the Grand Cru “La Tache”. Owned by Domaine de la Romanee Conti, wines from La Tache sell for well over 1000 Euro ($1800AUD) and is one of the most highly sought after wines in the world. These are a true rich-man’s treat.
Are they that much better in quality? They are undoubtedly better in quality, but considering it is unlikely I will ever have the chance to taste it, I will have to believe the stories.
Are they that much better in price? For collectors undoubtedly, not as a wine, but as a luxury commodity. The numbers tell us that wines over about $80AUD, and you are paying for luxury and prestige, not the contents. La Tache is not a wine for the common folk.
Burgundy is the home of rarity, luxury and prestige. You will rarely ever hear the words “Burgundy” and “bargain” together, and this is one of the main frustrations and complaints when dealing with wines from the area: it is an exclusive club.
Even the most basic Cote D’or village wines (red and white) can cost the same as the most expensive from other wine regions. It is also no uncommon for even some of the priciest examples to be underwhelming in the glass.
Then why would anyone want it?
Because when it is good, it is very very good. I mean, really mind-blowing, velvet suit, singing and dancing in a private Parisian cabaret, good. And for all the suspicion in the variations between vineyard sites, those old monks, for the most part, typically got it right in nominating which sites produce the best quality wines.
It defies logic, and causes much debate, but the fact is that these price variations exist, and the impact is real. If i were to put out an invitation to a free glass of La Tache, the interest levels and experience would be far more profound than an invitation to a glass of Les Chaumes?
Do you agree?
- WINEDUCATION - 